This tradition spans generations: families arrive annually, relying on the Magh Mela as a vital source of income through boat services for pilgrims. Many carry licenses from previous years as proof of their long-standing participation.

By Kaushiki Vaish

The sacred banks of the Triveni Sangam in Prayagraj, where the Ganga and Yamuna converge alongside the mythical Saraswati, are bustling with spiritual fervour as the Magh Mela 2026 unfolds. The annual pilgrimage (from January 3 to February 15 this year) draws millions of devotees for holy dips, especially on key dates like Paush Purnima, Makar Sankranti, Mauni Amavasya (January 18), Basant Panchami, and Magh Purnima.

Along the Arail ghat near the Sangam, hundreds of refurbished boats stand ready, freshly cleaned and operated by licensed navaks (boatmen) from Prayagraj. These local boatmen hold valid permits from the Jal Police (that polices the waterways), enabling them to ferry pilgrims eager for a sacred boat ride to the confluence point amid the mela’s vibrant atmosphere.

However, a stark contrast emerges just beyond these organized ghats. Along the muddy shores of the Yamuna, dozens of boatmen from neighbouring districts – including Kaushambi, Chitrakoot, and Mirzapur – have moored their vessels since early January. They have set up modest plastic tents with limited rations, braving the biting winter cold in hopes of earning a livelihood during the mela season.

This tradition spans generations: families arrive annually, relying on the Magh Mela as a vital source of income through boat services for pilgrims. Many carry licenses from previous years as proof of their long-standing participation. Yet this year, a bureaucratic hurdle has left them stranded.

Mounting Concerns

Waiting since January 1, these out-of-district boatmen remain without renewed licenses, even as the mela progresses and pilgrims flock to the ghats. They allege that officials have outright refused to process registrations under the UP96 code, specific to Chitrakoot vehicles. “Hum daily ja rahe hain license ke liye, form bhar rahe hain par reject kar diye ja rahe hain,” one boatman from Chitrakoot lamented, claiming forms are being rejected – even torn up.

Oril, a veteran boatman (of some 35 years) from Chitrakoot who arrived with his family, expressed deep frustration: “Kaushambi, Chitrakoot zile ko na hi keh de rahe hain, aisa kabhi nahi hua. Poora bachpana guzar gaya yahan aate-aate” (The word is a ‘no’ for those of us from Kaushambi and Chitrakoot districts. This has never happened before – we’ve been coming here since childhood).

Earlier protests near VIP ghats highlighted additional grievances, including allegations of officials demanding extra fees for licenses. Boatmen voiced distrust: “Paisa dene mein tab acha lagta hai jab hand-to-hand license mile. Yahan paisa bhi de denge aur kaam bhi nahi hoga toh hum kya khaayenge yahan baith ke?” (Paying is fine if the license is handed over immediately. Here, we fear we’ll pay and still get nothing – how will we feed ourselves sitting idle?)

In response to mounting concerns, Anuj Nishad, a Prayagraj-based boatman, raised the issue during a meeting with mela officers near Kila Ghat. Authorities offered only vague assurances that the matter would be investigated, providing little immediate relief. With over two weeks already spent enduring the chill – since the mela’s start on January 3 – many boatmen have reluctantly departed. They sail homeward in the very boats intended for earning, their hopes dashed and families facing financial strain.